Rob's Trip

Hey all. Sorry if my typing is a little off in this entry, my fingers are frozen! I’m in Hanoi in northern Vietnam and it’s very cold! It’s made worse because I have no warm clothes and Vietnamese hotels don’t believe in heating (or closing the door after themselves). They’re still selling me rooms by boasting air-conditioning and a fan when all I really want is a hot water bottle! I’ll try and warm myself my telling you about my time down south – where shorts and t-shirt were still the norm.

Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) was my first stop. It’s the biggest city in Vietnam with nearly twice as many people than the capital, Hanoi. At a glance you would think that the population spends all day driving round on motorbikes. The traffic is mental. It took me a while to learn how to cross the roads. You have to throw the Green Cross Code out the window, step off the curb and walk slowly into the fray. Don’t run or the bikes don’t have time to move around you. It’s scary but it works.

Whilst in Saigon I visited the Reunification Palace, seat of the South’s government up until the Communists took control. It’s been left almost exactly as it was then, there’s even a Huey on the roof and a couple of tanks in the grounds.
I also visited the Chu Chi tunnels, about 40 minutes out of the city. The whole of southern Vietnam used to be riddled with tunnels, first to fight the French and then later the Americans.
Chu Chi is one of the few places where tourists can go down into them to see what the Vietnamese soldiers endured. They’ve been widened, although I still struggled to get my fat Western arse through! During the war, soldiers spent all day in them and only surfaced at night. It was very hot and humid and I had to escape after about ten minutes.

Chu Chi also had mock ups of the booby traps laid for enemy soldiers and also another firing range with another menu of guns to try. This time round I opted for the M20 and nearly took my shoulder clean off!

Friends I’d met in Cambodia recommended that I buy an open bus ticket for traveling Vietnam. You pick your route and then hop on and off as you please. They’ve been a good way of getting around – not especially punctual, but cheap and convenient.
The first stop on my route up north was Muine, a small town with a beautiful stretch of coastline. The place is a mecca for kite surfers because of the reliable winds that blow inshore. I had hoped to get some lessons and have a go but they turned out to be really expensive. I spent a day or so exploring what little there was to the town and the beach before heading north.

As I waited for the bus to leave I got talking to two guys from Manchester, Will and Gaz. It was great to hear some familiar accents after so long and they turned out to be great guys. Our routes north were almost the same and so for the last few weeks we’ve been traveling together.

The next stop on the coast was Nha Trang, supposedly Vietnam’s premier diving spot. I had booked a day diving but then made the mistake of going on a boat cruise (aka booze cruise) the day before with Will and Gaz. We had a great day, met lots of people, got very drunk and ended up very, very sun burnt. At one point there was a floating bar dishing out free wine! That probably contributed to Will and another guy falling overboard as we turned to head home. What did they expect to happen?! The hangover kicked in right about the same time as the sunburn. Needless to say, I took a rain check on the scuba diving. I spent the next day recuperating and then explored the city – albeit slowly and painfully.
There are some beautiful temples and a giant Buddha perched on the hill top overlooking the town. Orginally a fishing village, the towns harbour is still full of traditional fishing boats.

From Nha Trang I caught the overnight sleeper to Hoi An. The historic town centre is a labyrinth of ally ways packed with craft shops and art galleries. Because its UNESCO listed, the old centre is protected from overdevelopment. Cars and trucks are banned so it was great to wonder the streets and take in all the old colonial buildings.

One day was enough to take in the sights, but I could have happily stayed longer to soak up the relaxed vibe. As time was short, I pushed further north up to Hue.

The New Year celebrations were in full swing when I arrived into town and I got an invite to the hotel owner’s party. It wasn’t what I expected of a New Years party, so I made my excuses and left after an hour or so. I thought the city was under attack later that night when the fireworks started. If it wasn’t for the fog they’d have been very impressive.
In the morning the lobby was invaded by a Chinese Dragon, complete with accompanying drummers and dancers. I’m still not sure what exactly was going on (banishing spirits, good fortune or what?) but it was a great wake up call.

I hired a motorbike and driver for the day and checked out some of the famous tombs in the nearby countryside. They were beautifully designed, some with lush gardens and lakes inside their high walls. The mist that hung around all day gave them a really eerie feel. Luckily I avoided most of the tour groups and had them mostly to myself. Plus because it was New Year there was no entrance fees – bonus!

The last stop on my bus ticket was Hanoi, the capital, which is where I am now. I’m staying in the Old Quarter of the city which is amazing – a tourist attraction in its own right. Thousands of tiny streets crisscross one another and there’s the constant buzz of motorbikes and the rush of people. I can’t really say it’s beautiful, the place is filthy, but it does have a certain charm and I really like it.

On my first day here I visited the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. He was once President/moral crusader and is still a national hero. When he died the Vietnamese ignored his wishes to be cremated and instead had him embalmed and put on display in a glass case inside a fortress of a building.

After meeting up with Will and Gaz again we all went on a two day trip to Halong Bay – the ‘must do’ attraction in these parts. Although the weather wasn’t great, the thousands of stone stacks and lush islands were very impressive.


It was fun just to cruise around the Bay for a while and soak in the surroundings. We spent a night on one of the biggest islands, in a ghost town that seemed virtually deserted. We had resigned to the fact that the night would be a wash out when it suddenly turned around thanks to a group of Polish tourists, hell bent on having the time of their lives. We got swept up in their enthusiasm and ended up having a ball.

Tomorrow I fly back to Bangkok and then head south for my last two weeks in the sun. I’ll be sorry to leave Will and Gaz, and Vietnam, it’s been a lot of fun.

All my love, Rob.